Cycling the Hebrides 2012 – Day 2, Cumbrae and Arran

The Bute Ferry at Rothesay

Day 2 dawned grey and windy;  I was first into the kitchen and tucked in to some cereal, and unable to find proper milk I used soya milk instead – it’s actually rather good! Our host Frank then appeared, telling us that there was an ‘amber alert’ warning that the ferry might not run due to the high winds. However, when we got to the terminal, the ferry was definitely running – but this was perhaps the first time that it had occurred to me that at some state we might get ‘ferry disruption’…

Once we were back on dry land, it was an easy run from Wemyss Bay to Largs with a helpful tailwind.  Nardini’s is an iconic Art Deco café and we couldn’t pass without calling in for a cuppa.  Just like the previous Big Bike Ride last year, I was contacted on Twitter by other cyclists who wanted to ride with us for a while. This time it was Tommy and Euian who had ridden up from the Ardrossan area to be with us and keep us company on our second island, Great Cumbrae.

Don't mess with these guys! - Euian and Tommy join us for Cumbrae

It was a short journey on choppy seas, and when we got to Cumbrae the clouds were black and the winds quite fierce.  The idea was to do an anticlockwise lap of the island before returning and then continuing to Arran.  The roads on the island were quiet, though I was assured that during the Glasgow Fair week they would be anything but!

Little Cumbrae from Great Cumbrae

The west coast was quite spectacular with great views over the weathered red sandstone rocks along the shore.  Millport, the main town, looked a wee bit tired in places but at least there was an interesting machine outside the bike shop!  Our last few miles back to the ferry were into the teeth of a fierce cold wind, and when we looked at the sea we wondered whether the ferry might be held up, but we had no need to worry – even though at one stage we thought the ‘bus shelter’ for waiting passengers might blow away!

For a moment I thought The Goodies might be in Millport...

After lunch in Largs the wind direction changed, troubling us with a gale-force cross wind on the 12 or so miles to Ardrossan, where the ferry to the Isle of Arran would depart.  We said goodbye to Tommy and Euian, then arrived at the ferry terminal where we bought our tickets and joined the mix of all kinds of different people in the waiting room (it was too cold and windy outside!)

This, folks, is a Shag. A bit like a Cormorant.

Brodick, where the ferry arrives on Arran, is a strange place – it doesn’t feel like a town, more a random collection of hotels, houses, and a few shops including a big Co-op supermarket.  We stopped for a coffee at a café-cum-outdoor shop, and when the owner saw that we were raising funds for Cancer Research he gave us back our money as a donation.

The Arran Ferry at Brodick

Then off to our digs for the night – this time, arranged by the local Minister via Twitter at the home of one of his congregation – the friendly John Roberts, who made us a great evening meal and provided us with a comfy separate bedroom each.  I repaid him by breaking the towel rail in the bathroom, but we soon mended that for him!

Not a big mileage today – less than 30 miles on the bikes – but two contrasting islands, and now we were looking forward to a tour around the Isle of Arran tomorrow.

Cycling the Hebrides 2012 – Day 1

Wemyss Bay Station

You’ve probably already read some of me blogs, but whether you have or not, I should say by way of a brief introduction that this is an account of 26 or so days cycling to all the reasonably accessible islands off the west coast of Scotland.  The aim was to set foot on 43, and as you’ll find out later, we almost did it. One island eluded us, and I’ll tell you why later.

Us by the way means me, Bill Honeywell (more information at the top of this blog), and Richard Dugdale, also from Clitheroe. Richard has his own blog which you can get to by following the link on this page.  We were cycling to raise money and awareness for Cancer Research UK and the Rosemere Cancer Foundation, so if at any time you feel the urge to make a donation – and I hope you do – then again, just follow the links given on this page.

I tried to update the blog as the ride progressed but I didn’t manage to give you much information as it all had to be done on an iPhone, and the photos were also only those taken on the phone. Now I’m home I can post some better pictures, taken on a Panasonic ‘bridge’ camera which was new for the ride and worked very well.

So, without further ado…  the story so far.

On Saturday 28 April we cycled from home to Preston station, caught the train up to Glasgow and booked in at the Travelodge on Paisley Road.  This is perhaps not the best location in the city – there was a security guard on the car park and before we’d been there an hour people were tweeting me to ‘be careful out there’!

The Bute Ferry

First thing Sunday morning we returned to Glasgow Central Station and caught a train to Wemyss (pronounced ‘Wimz’) Bay to get the Calmac ferry across to island no 1, The Isle of Bute, lying in the Firth of Clyde west of Glasgow.  The weather was glorious and the station at Wemyss Bay is a fine example of Victorian architecture.  It was a bit breezy on the crossing and we opted to stay inside the ferry and just look out of the windows!  There was another group of cyclists who were on a day trip to the island.

A Royal Navy destroyer anchored off the island

We decided to do a roughly clockwise tour of Bute so turned left off the ferry in Rothesay and… stopped at the first café on the edge of the town for the obligatory coffee and cake.  Then off along green lanes with birds singing and the sun shining, until we reached the ancient ruin of St Blane’s Church near the southern tip of the island. We left the bikes, walked to what is left of the church, and found a group of archaeologists doing a geophysical survey. No sign of Tony Robinson or the Time Team, however.  It’s a really pleasant, tranquil site where you feel you could sit down and put your feet up for a few hours.

St Blane's Church

But of course we headed back for the bikes and set off again on our tour, past the lovely Scalpsie Bay on the west coast and then past another roof-less church to Ettrick Bay and another café stop.  From here, with the sun still shining, we headed back to the east coast and then north along a long cul-de-sac by the Kyles of Bute to Rhubodach where another ferry makes the short crossing to Colintrave on the Cowal peninsula.  We saw Eider ducks in the sea here, and there were also Gannets, Common Sandpipers, Oystercatchers and Swallows.

Ettrick Bay

View from the Kyles of Bute

A pair of Eider Ducks

Then back to Rothesay where, at 5.50, we called at one of Zavaronis’ cafés, but were told he was about to shut, so we got a coffee ‘to go’ and then did a tour of the town.  On our way back past the café at 6.30 he was still open… hmph! 

Rothesay Castle

Our night’s lodgingw were to be with Frank Ledwith via warmshowers.org, a site which enables touring cyclists to provide accommodation on a reciprocal basis.  Frank had been in Lancaster all day and didn’t return till just after 7pm, but gave us a warm welcome and a warm meal too!

So ended our first day – the first of many – with one island and just under 40 miles in the bag.  Tomorrow we would add another two – Great Cumbrae and Arran – and a fellow tweep, Tommy Gribbon, had promised to join us on part of the cycle.

More Mull Meanderings

This is the magnificent Ben More group seen from the Ulva Ferry - Gruline road which we were now on. Ben More is the only island Munro (mountain over 3,000 ft) Apart from those on Skye, and I've had the pleasure of climbing it three times. You start at sea level so it's a proper climb.

Just after Gruline we passed the mausoleum of Lachlan MacQuarrie, 'father of Australia'. He was born on Ulva and the mausoleum is the property of the state of New South Wales.

Wolf Island

And so to Ulva. Duncan the ferry man took us across for free; we had a coffee at the Boathouse Café (where the home baking is also excellent) then, conscious of the time (after 2.00), and the fact that we weren't even half way, we jumped back on the wee ferry and headed back to 'mainland' Mull.

Not the Tour of Mull Rally

Tuesday was to be a long day, basically doing four of the best rally stages, visiting the island of Ulva and then cycling along the Ross of Mull to stay the night with Tony & Jean Wagstaff. For those of you who have no idea what I'm talking about, try Googling 'Mull Rally' or have a look on YouTube. I was a competitor for many years and the picture is a memorial to the founder of the event, the delightful Brian Molyneux, sadly missed.

We set a time of 44m 37s on Mishnish Lochs, between Tobermory and Dervaig, which shouldn't worry any of the drivers. Then on to 'The Long One' around Calgary Bay, from where, despite our many changes of direction, the wind seemed to be in our faces all day!

Every now and again we would stop so that I could show Richard another place where I had once crashed, which slowed progress considerably! We met three cycling ladies from Northern Ireland, stopped at the spectacular Eas Fors waterfall, and eventually reached the Ulva Ferry - summoned by sliding a board on the wall to reveal the red background. Very high-tec!

What's the Story?

On Monday night we met a group of ecologists and whale-watchers whose boat, by a strange coincidence, was being skippered by Rob, whose house we stayed in in Portree.

Tobermory was as welcoming as ever, with its painted buildings (and the world's best fish and chip van). We stayed in a great B&B called Fuaran on Raeric Road.

Mission accomplished!

Today we set foot (and bike) on our last island - Oronsay, which lies to the south of Colonsay, reached only at low tide by pedalling (or walking or driving) through wet sand for about a mile. It is VERY hard work on a bike, and you thought we were doing this for fun!

Before I tell you more, I realise I've been unable to blog for the last couple of days so I'll try to bring you up to date, starting with this photo taken just outside Salen, on the Isle of Mull, on Monday.

The weather has been so kind for a few days now. The suncream is getting a hammering and now even the wind has dropped - though it was breezy on Monday and Tuesday. Cycling heaven!

Apologies to all readers

I'm sorry for the lack of blogs over the last two days but I've either been short of signal/wifi or out of time!

Tomorrow and Friday will be our last two islands - Colonsay and Oronsay - and signals may well be difficult again. So please bear with me - I WILL bring you up to date as soon as I can.

PS Thanks to the anonymous donor for the large donation to Cancer Research UK on Just Giving today, and to the many people en route who have given a total of £330 as we have passed by!

Brief Re-Encounter!

We decided to go to the MacDonald Arms for something to eat as I wanted to see the landlady, Susan, to let her know my parents are OK. No seats in the main bar, went into the back room and who should be there, with a team of ecologists/whale-watchers, but Rob, whose house we stayed in on Skye (and whose arrival late that evening might have turned into a diplomatic incident!)

Furthermore Theresa, one of the ecologists, comes from Clitheroe. So a good evening was had by all.

It was great to see Susan too, after she'd finished feeding the 5,000, and Neil. Then we met an interesting guy from Miami and Washington DC who seems to spend his life backpacking around the world and working as a consultant at the same time. I didn't catch his name though - so please fella - if you read this, send me an email with your details.

Enough for today. Around the rugged west coast tomorrow - if the weather keeps up it should be superb.

KPO, KPO.

Scorchio!

As the temperature rose (I can't believe in writing this but it's true!) we pedalled through Salen and on to the single-track A-road which leads to Tobermory. This must be the busiest such road in Britain - how it can remain single-track with so much traffic defeats me.

Just outside Salen are these two old boats (photo) which are always photogenic.

The views along the Sound of Mull are fantastic, better still when the sea is so blue. Soon we arrived in Tobermory, looking as splendid as ever with its brightly coloured houses along the sea front. I called at Alison's shop on the corner near the Mishnish, hoping for a hug and a kiss, only to be met by husband Pete. Nice to see you again Pete (but a kiss from Alison would've been better!)

Then up the steep hill to our excellent B&B for tonight, Fuaran House on Raeric Road, run by Brian & Lynne McLeod.

Mull Murmurings (with apologies to Jaggy Bunnet!)

As soon as we left the ferry in Craignure we headed for Duart Castle, perched in its superb location and home of Lord McLean. The views from the castle were superb, looking up Loch Linnhe to a snow-covered Ben Nevis.

After the obligatory coffee and scone we headed out to Grasspoint, where there was once a ferry and cattle drovers actually swam their animals to the mainland. Two magnificent Sea Eagles were sitting on a rock opposite- a long way off - luckily a family who were birdwatching let us view them through their telescope.

Back to Craignure for a sandwich then off towards Tobermory. We stopped for a while near Pennygown to see of any porpoises would turn up but to no avail. A couple of small aircraft landed at the grass strip airport at Glenforsa, uncomfortably close together, I thought.

Earlier This Morning...

...this was the view towards the Isle of Mull from just outside Oban. There is a cycle path from Dunbeg right into the heart of Oban.

The Mull ferry was packed - with Americans, Germans, French, Italians - and even a few Brits!

This island is almost like a second home. I'll tell you what we did later, after we've been down into Tob for something to eat. I'm starving!

Mull Here We Come!

Tomorrow morning we take the ferry from Oban to Craignure on Mull for three days on the island I'm most familiar with, having visited annually for the last 40 years. I used to compete on the Tour of Mull Rally every October, if you're wondering!

On this occasion the pace will be a little slower. Duart Castle, Salen and an evening in Tobermory tomorrow. Dervaig, Calgary Bay, Ulva, Loch na Keal and Loch Scridain Tues; Iona and Erraid Wednesday, then the ferry back to Oban.

Will we see Otters, Sea Eagles and Golden Eagles?

I'll let you know...

The Photo I would have paid good money not to show...

Tonight we are being hosted once again by Dave & June Bleazard near Oban, and have been given free use of the washing machine - not a moment too soon for me! Richard sneaked this photo which I'd rather my missus doesn't see!!

The Falls of Lora

The tide race below the bridge at Connel can be very impressive, with strong currents and big standing waves. A few intrepid kayakers were enjoying themselves there this afternoon.